Pane y Vino moved from the location in front of Teatro Merida on calle 62 to the corner of 64 and 59. They now open for lunch but the buffet they offer looks somewhat "cat sucked". Buffet is just a bad idea in this climate FYI. Buffet pasta, NO! I rather liked the filthy walls and posters in the old location. I walked out of a concert at intermission this week and went to look for a place to eat. I passed by Pane y Vino and thought I should give it a try but I didn't see the owners inside and that's a bad sign. I walked over to Santa Lucia and read the menu of the new Poblano-Yucatecan restaurant but It leaned to heavily on the Yucatecan side and the menu was to shinny. I guess I'll try it but not soon. I walked up 62 where all the restaurants were empty and I had about 15 menus shoved in my face by the desperate staff's of the tourist traps between Santa Lucia and the Zocalo. The table on the Zocalo were full of locals and tourists but I suspect the locals were employees and the tourists could not have been happy campers. When my friends came out of the theatre I was there on the steps and we went home, opened a bottle of wine, and in 20 minutes we were eating Pasta Puttanesca on my terrace.
Lifted from the front page of Yucatan Today this morning is their restaurant review of La Vie en Noir.
"Can you imagine dining in the dark? I don't mean dim mood lighting, I mean pitch black. Think about it...your other four senses will be compensating for your temporary lack of sight. La Vie en Noir is a new restaurant in Mérida (since November 2008), with this unique concept beautifully executed. There are over 20 cities all over the world with the theme of gourmet food in the dark. La Vie en Noir is the first one in Mexico.
Dark dining is the brainchild of Jorge Spielmann, a blind clergyman from Zurich. During dinners at his home, Spielmann began blindfolding guests so they could better understand his world - and stumbled upon a new dining concept. In September 1999, Spielmann opened Blindekuh (Blind Cow) in Zurich, and the trend has spread."
NEWSFLASH !!! They closed 3 months ago. I've eaten a lot of food in Merida that I wish I'd never seen but I've never eaten anything that I couldn't see before I put it my mouth.
On a Positive note. I hear the gordita's on the corner of 71 and 64 are great. I'm going to try them now.
Update: I Spoke too soon they were not so good after all. But they were closing and we got the dregs. I'll go back earlier in the day when they might be better. The Masa showed promise if fresh. They don't seem to have a name or need one. Hours 7am-1pm. Chicharron, Papas con Charizo, Papas con Rajas. Waynes and Anna Sabrina do all of these fillings better....
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Saturday, October 03, 2009
C'a D'Oro Revisited
Finally! Someone with a passion for food has opened a restaurant in Merida. Ca' D'Oro is an Italian restaurant with a Venetian owner and Neopolian Chef. It opened 2 weeks ago in a horrid strip mall called Plaza Mayor off the Paseo Montejo next door to Segafredo with a stunning view of Carl's Junior. The first thing you'll see when you step through the door, if you don't slip on the over polished marble floor is the amiable chef. Kiss his feet. You already feel transported to one of those modern over lit over mirrored bars in Milan. You'll suck in your gut and square your shoulders as you glance around to see if Donatella or Georgio are tucked into one of the banquettes sipping Negronis. I've been there 5 times already. I loose patience with the menu after 45 seconds. It's too big but in 45 seconds I've already found 10 courses I want to try. There's a page of antipasti, two pages of pizza, two pages of pasta, a page of meat, a page of seafood, and so on and so on. I've already thrown up my hands twice and just asked the chef to bring me some food. They have their own boats in Sisal that bring in seafood daily. The veggies come from Mexico City on thursdays. All the wine is Italian.
I have a fear that they will try to train a local person who's never eaten in a restaurant to cook. This happened to Pane y Vino and it's also happend at Elio Al Mare when the owner turns his back on the kitchen. But for now in it's infancy Ca' D'Oro is perfection. I'm not going to waste my time eating anywhere else until I've tried everything on the menu and then I'm going to start over again.
Ca' D'Oro
Plaza Mayor
Prolongation Paseo Montejo x Calle 34
Colonia Emiliano Zapata Norte
999 948 11 55
UPDATE: 8 July 2010
Today I revisited C'a D'Oro for lunch.
The chef is gone. So sad, there goes the entertainment of watching the chef and the owner trade insults on the dining room floor. I guess he took all the clients with him as well. In the hour (2-3) or more I was there another customer graced the threshold. Without a chef we decided to make it easy on them. They have gone to the trouble to edit the menu. They have taken a few things off and changed all the prices. Instead of reprinting the menu they have cut out little rectangular tags and glued them old prices and my what a good job they have done. Then they took tape and taped over the new prices. It just looks lovely and I'm sure their imaginary customers are going to be happy to paying higher prices. The pizza still has fake cheese on it. The mineral water was delicious and I enjoyed the air conditioning...
UPDATE 2011 C'a D'Oro closed owner MIA chef went to Hyatt but I think he left there too.
I have a fear that they will try to train a local person who's never eaten in a restaurant to cook. This happened to Pane y Vino and it's also happend at Elio Al Mare when the owner turns his back on the kitchen. But for now in it's infancy Ca' D'Oro is perfection. I'm not going to waste my time eating anywhere else until I've tried everything on the menu and then I'm going to start over again.
Ca' D'Oro
Plaza Mayor
Prolongation Paseo Montejo x Calle 34
Colonia Emiliano Zapata Norte
999 948 11 55
UPDATE: 8 July 2010
Today I revisited C'a D'Oro for lunch.
The chef is gone. So sad, there goes the entertainment of watching the chef and the owner trade insults on the dining room floor. I guess he took all the clients with him as well. In the hour (2-3) or more I was there another customer graced the threshold. Without a chef we decided to make it easy on them. They have gone to the trouble to edit the menu. They have taken a few things off and changed all the prices. Instead of reprinting the menu they have cut out little rectangular tags and glued them old prices and my what a good job they have done. Then they took tape and taped over the new prices. It just looks lovely and I'm sure their imaginary customers are going to be happy to paying higher prices. The pizza still has fake cheese on it. The mineral water was delicious and I enjoyed the air conditioning...
UPDATE 2011 C'a D'Oro closed owner MIA chef went to Hyatt but I think he left there too.
Saturday, February 07, 2009
UPDATE ON MY DINING HABITS & DOGFOOD
Occasionally, unavoidably I find myself dinning out after dark. But I've whined and moaned for so long now to friends that invitations from that quarter have dwindled. Normally I cook 3 times a week for the 4 dogs ( a Xoloitzcuintli and 3 fox terriers). I make a boeuf a la mode or short ribs paprika in the crockpot. I alternate the beef with pork and make a pibil or a chicken & rice dish. So I dip into the crockpot or invite friends over for some dogfood which causes much confusion in my canine household. When guest come to town and we are compelled to put on long trousers and go to a restaurant we only have a few choices. XCANATUN'S CASA PIEDRA is the safest choice for guests. I've been there once a month for the past year. I still prefer the barking dogs on the terrace to the piano concerts in the dining room. I was going to a new Argentine "style" restaurant on Montejo called LA RECOVA every couple of weeks but I've given up on the place as of this week. I've order the most expensive steak on the menu, a moderate one and then I just stuck the hamburger until this week of all horrors they decided to add a relish, a cheese like substance and a heap of garlic powder to my burger. For me the hamburger is sacred. When I fell of the vegetarian wagon back in 1981 it was for a hamburger. Still If I were forced to chose between the ever popular TROTTERS (no relation Charlie Trotter & not visited by me this past year) and La Recova I'd chose the latter and have a salad and lots of beer. I might even order a steak and send it back. But sadly a trip to Costco for a bag of mixed greens and a ribeye & shrimp to throw on the grill will produce a meal far superior to anything you are likely to experience in the most popular and expensive eateries frequented by the local gentry, expats who haven't lost their savings and tourist who venture out in search of a normal meal. Last year I was a regular at NECTAR where the owner chef is a talented and gracious guy. But sadly 50% of the food that comes to the table is just downright weird. I'm tired of sending food back or playing Russian roulette with my stomach. I'm also tired of over paying for a bottle of wine and so I've only been there once or twice in the past year. I've no plans to return. My last meal there cost me $75 and that was more than any of the meals I had in NYC in October and not half as good. Oh dear what does that leave. I have close friends who use Via Italia as a canteen. They love it and I don't hate it so I do eat there. I go to CAMPAY a couple of times a month for dinner and once a week for lunch. LA PIGUA is renovated and now open on weekends for dinner but I cannot imagine myself there after dark. I go there every 10 days or so and eat ceviche, oysters or octopus. I never eat the fish only because I eat fish filets every week at MARLIN AZUL.
Now for you fortunate few who will not be having dinner with me in Merida there are still some decent options. You can still have a perfectly decent meal at Meson del Segoviano, Casa de Frida, Villa Maria or Pane y Vino downtown and pretty much any where else you're screwed. Or if you don't care about booze with your food you can eat at Rafello's Pizza or La Reina de Itzalana both of which I frequent.
For the rest of you I can recommend the dog food. Just don't come on the night I feed them sardines or chicken livers it always puts them in a bad news. I'd offer to share the special diet lamb and rice croquets from the vet's but I cannot afford to share them with you humans
Now for you fortunate few who will not be having dinner with me in Merida there are still some decent options. You can still have a perfectly decent meal at Meson del Segoviano, Casa de Frida, Villa Maria or Pane y Vino downtown and pretty much any where else you're screwed. Or if you don't care about booze with your food you can eat at Rafello's Pizza or La Reina de Itzalana both of which I frequent.
For the rest of you I can recommend the dog food. Just don't come on the night I feed them sardines or chicken livers it always puts them in a bad news. I'd offer to share the special diet lamb and rice croquets from the vet's but I cannot afford to share them with you humans
Wednesday, June 11, 2008
6 Months Later...
I realize it's been 6 months since I posted a new restaurant or a review. Well here is something new and below I've updated a few places.
I've recently had a change of heart about La Pigua thanks to Sir Francis Drake. I'm bored with the menu at Frida's. It's great if you've never eaten there or you don't live in Merida but I'd like to see her add a daily or a least a weekly special for us desperate locals who like her kitchen. Villa Maria has finally made a change in their menu but it's in the wrong direction. The big change is they raised their prices. The menu is tired. It's been 4 years.... change it!! Every time I think of going to Pane e Vino I drive downtown, park, and discover it's Monday and they are closed. But it was still good and still dirty the last time I went.
My conclusion after almost 7 years in Merida is this: Lunch is still better, cheaper and easier to digest than dinner. I end up eating a lot of seafood. Each week I go to El Cangrejito for tacos, Marlin Azul for filet of Grouper and Campay for sushi. (yes I still eat sushi) The worms have already eaten that part of my brain that makes one cautious about what one eats. I drop into a cocina economica most weeks and I'm rarely disappointed. I started going back to an old standby called Platos Rotos in Garcia Gineres. I'd give it mixed reviews for sure but there are some very good things there. The problem is figuring out what they are on any given day. The posole is always good.
Yet another Italian has moved to Merida and opened a Pizza restaurant. Pizzeria Raffaello calle 60 and 49. It took him a couple of months to get the crust right but on my recent and 3rd trip it was perfect. The toppings are all fresh. The only problema is there is no wine or even beer. The good news is they deliver in centro. tel 924 99 43 Rafaello also spicks the english.
Good Luck
I've recently had a change of heart about La Pigua thanks to Sir Francis Drake. I'm bored with the menu at Frida's. It's great if you've never eaten there or you don't live in Merida but I'd like to see her add a daily or a least a weekly special for us desperate locals who like her kitchen. Villa Maria has finally made a change in their menu but it's in the wrong direction. The big change is they raised their prices. The menu is tired. It's been 4 years.... change it!! Every time I think of going to Pane e Vino I drive downtown, park, and discover it's Monday and they are closed. But it was still good and still dirty the last time I went.
My conclusion after almost 7 years in Merida is this: Lunch is still better, cheaper and easier to digest than dinner. I end up eating a lot of seafood. Each week I go to El Cangrejito for tacos, Marlin Azul for filet of Grouper and Campay for sushi. (yes I still eat sushi) The worms have already eaten that part of my brain that makes one cautious about what one eats. I drop into a cocina economica most weeks and I'm rarely disappointed. I started going back to an old standby called Platos Rotos in Garcia Gineres. I'd give it mixed reviews for sure but there are some very good things there. The problem is figuring out what they are on any given day. The posole is always good.
Yet another Italian has moved to Merida and opened a Pizza restaurant. Pizzeria Raffaello calle 60 and 49. It took him a couple of months to get the crust right but on my recent and 3rd trip it was perfect. The toppings are all fresh. The only problema is there is no wine or even beer. The good news is they deliver in centro. tel 924 99 43 Rafaello also spicks the english.
Good Luck
Saturday, December 01, 2007
As the Stomach Turns....
I'm probably going to have to make a new blog just for this new telenovela (soap opera) that is all about where to have lunch and it happens about the same time every day.
Iguana Blanca
calle 7 no.72 x 6 y 8
colonias Garcia Gineres
This weeks episode starts with lunch with Suzanne and Keith at Iguana Blanca an Italian 'Cocina Economica' in a 60's suburb of Merida. The football game that the cook was watching when we came in was quickly switched to La Costes lounge music on the same TV, via SKY, and the sound bounced off the spotless white ceramic tiles and ubiquitous cement block walls until I finally asked for the owner to 'bajar el musica'. Lucas the owner is so nice and the place is so popular with expat's that I'm baffled as to why I don't "love" it. I've always liked what I've eaten here but I've never overwhelmed. Still if you must have lasagne it's usually on the menu here. I'll always remember this as the lunch where Suzanne confirmed that I had more venom than blood surging through my body. p.s. Lucas does catering
UPDATE: JUNE 11, 2008
Tio Will
calle 70 no. 506 x 65 y 63
Around the corner from my house. I'd never eaten here til yesterday. Josh's parents gave us 24 hours notice and popped in from San Diego. Yesterday on the menu were pork fajitas something I did not see anyone ordering and something else I'd never heard of. I'll have to go ask Tio Will what the spelling was. It was shereaded pork patties in a pasilla chile sauce that made my head spin and my heart patter. I'll probably go back to Tio's for breakfast this morning.
Update: Feb. 7, 2009
Tio Will seems to have disappeared yesterday and left the kids in charge of the kitchen. The first choice was enchiladas suiza which generally means we don't have anything in the house but some old tortillas, some inferior cheese and a can of green sauce. 2nd choice was breaded pork filet which means freezer to microwave to the breadcrumbs while the grease heats up. I went for the 3rd choice which may have been sitting around for a couple of days but was definately sitting around getting cold about the time Josh and Suzanne's pork hit the breadcrumbs. Tio Will get your ass back in the kitchen.
Campay
I eat lunch at this Japanese restaurant in Campestre at least once a week and sometimes we have dinner at the Colonial Mexico on Thursdays when the rolls are 1/2 price. When everything is 1/2 price it seems just like the place around the corner from "your" apartment in NY. This Thursday we had dinner there with Seamus and Abe right after their pilates class. Eric and Charles picked us up and we ran into Fritz & Werner who are always leaving a restaurant that we are arriving at. Hugs all around. I always order the Teka Maki and the Maguro Maki. Suzuki rolls made with fresh sea bass and tempura rolls when they are hot are divino.
El Cangrejito
calle 57 no.523 x 64 y66
Went here with Josephina who just got back from 4 months in Buenes Aires...She came to see my new house which was finished while she was gone. When I suggested we have lunch at Cangrejito she almost fainted. "No it cannot be" Turns out her parents used to have the Cangrejito come and make tacos around the pool at home when she was a kid. When she was married El Cangrejito was the favorite of her new Swiss husband and that was at about 35 years ago. So when we got there and it was the same and owner was alive we quickly ordered our cevezita's and got down to business. And recently I discovered that it was possible to eat 5 or 6 merengues after you think you could not put another thing in your mouth......
UPDATE: June 11, 2008
I am still eating lunch here almost every week. It has become a favorite of most of our guests at Urbano Rentals too. But lately there is a disturbing trend I've noticed when I ask for the bill and there is more than one blond at the table. They just make up the bill and when I ask for a printed copy of the bill it has dropped about 100-150 pesos. It does not keep me away but it is really annoying after all these years to be treated like a tourist....
UPDATE: Feb 7, 2008 Still loving Cangrejito and holding my breath when the bill comes.
Iguana Blanca
calle 7 no.72 x 6 y 8
colonias Garcia Gineres
This weeks episode starts with lunch with Suzanne and Keith at Iguana Blanca an Italian 'Cocina Economica' in a 60's suburb of Merida. The football game that the cook was watching when we came in was quickly switched to La Costes lounge music on the same TV, via SKY, and the sound bounced off the spotless white ceramic tiles and ubiquitous cement block walls until I finally asked for the owner to 'bajar el musica'. Lucas the owner is so nice and the place is so popular with expat's that I'm baffled as to why I don't "love" it. I've always liked what I've eaten here but I've never overwhelmed. Still if you must have lasagne it's usually on the menu here. I'll always remember this as the lunch where Suzanne confirmed that I had more venom than blood surging through my body. p.s. Lucas does catering
UPDATE: JUNE 11, 2008
Tio Will
calle 70 no. 506 x 65 y 63
Around the corner from my house. I'd never eaten here til yesterday. Josh's parents gave us 24 hours notice and popped in from San Diego. Yesterday on the menu were pork fajitas something I did not see anyone ordering and something else I'd never heard of. I'll have to go ask Tio Will what the spelling was. It was shereaded pork patties in a pasilla chile sauce that made my head spin and my heart patter. I'll probably go back to Tio's for breakfast this morning.
Update: Feb. 7, 2009
Tio Will seems to have disappeared yesterday and left the kids in charge of the kitchen. The first choice was enchiladas suiza which generally means we don't have anything in the house but some old tortillas, some inferior cheese and a can of green sauce. 2nd choice was breaded pork filet which means freezer to microwave to the breadcrumbs while the grease heats up. I went for the 3rd choice which may have been sitting around for a couple of days but was definately sitting around getting cold about the time Josh and Suzanne's pork hit the breadcrumbs. Tio Will get your ass back in the kitchen.
Campay
I eat lunch at this Japanese restaurant in Campestre at least once a week and sometimes we have dinner at the Colonial Mexico on Thursdays when the rolls are 1/2 price. When everything is 1/2 price it seems just like the place around the corner from "your" apartment in NY. This Thursday we had dinner there with Seamus and Abe right after their pilates class. Eric and Charles picked us up and we ran into Fritz & Werner who are always leaving a restaurant that we are arriving at. Hugs all around. I always order the Teka Maki and the Maguro Maki. Suzuki rolls made with fresh sea bass and tempura rolls when they are hot are divino.
El Cangrejito
calle 57 no.523 x 64 y66
Went here with Josephina who just got back from 4 months in Buenes Aires...She came to see my new house which was finished while she was gone. When I suggested we have lunch at Cangrejito she almost fainted. "No it cannot be" Turns out her parents used to have the Cangrejito come and make tacos around the pool at home when she was a kid. When she was married El Cangrejito was the favorite of her new Swiss husband and that was at about 35 years ago. So when we got there and it was the same and owner was alive we quickly ordered our cevezita's and got down to business. And recently I discovered that it was possible to eat 5 or 6 merengues after you think you could not put another thing in your mouth......
UPDATE: June 11, 2008
I am still eating lunch here almost every week. It has become a favorite of most of our guests at Urbano Rentals too. But lately there is a disturbing trend I've noticed when I ask for the bill and there is more than one blond at the table. They just make up the bill and when I ask for a printed copy of the bill it has dropped about 100-150 pesos. It does not keep me away but it is really annoying after all these years to be treated like a tourist....
UPDATE: Feb 7, 2008 Still loving Cangrejito and holding my breath when the bill comes.
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Last Night and Last Week on Paseo Montejo
We went to eat at one of my least favorite places in town, La Tratto. It started like this. Host: "Where would you like to sit" Me: "as far from the speakers as possible". That turned out to be no where so we sat at the extreme edge of the sidewalk where we'd be able to thrust ourselves into the oncoming traffic on Paseo Montejo if need be. It was 2x1 Carne night (Mondays) and that is what got us there in the first place. I don't know why you'd eat at this place if it wasn't 1/2 price. Beware of Wednesday's when it's 2x1 over cooked, over sauced, over priced pasta night served up with more insipid loud music. Any way the Cowboy Steak (ribeye) was excellent. Was served on a bed of overcooked veggies and the fries came for dessert. Steak Dinner for 4 with beer no appetiser no dessert was 1000 pesos. and that's half price.
At least it was edible. Last Week we were stuck on the other side of town because there was a parade from Paseo Montejo to the Zocalo for the anniversary of the revolution. We ended up driving to the Prolongation of Montejo and eating at La Parillia. It turned out to be just as vile as I remembered from 5 years ago. The ribeye here was indeed so vile that we brought it home intact for the dogs....and they loved it. Luckily it was not my ribeye that night. I had the posole which was actually good. Here we also sat on the sidewalk because of the noise inside.
So at 3am I was up with ... gas ... and found this blog written by Zora O'Neill. She writes for the Rough Guides. I usually rough it when I go to Tulum because I usually go with at least a couple of dogs. (for the record they love the steaks at the Argentine in Tulum). Any way she seems to get off the beaten path and her food blog is great..It must be it's 6 am and I'm still reading it....or is it the gas that's keeping me awake?
At least it was edible. Last Week we were stuck on the other side of town because there was a parade from Paseo Montejo to the Zocalo for the anniversary of the revolution. We ended up driving to the Prolongation of Montejo and eating at La Parillia. It turned out to be just as vile as I remembered from 5 years ago. The ribeye here was indeed so vile that we brought it home intact for the dogs....and they loved it. Luckily it was not my ribeye that night. I had the posole which was actually good. Here we also sat on the sidewalk because of the noise inside.
So at 3am I was up with ... gas ... and found this blog written by Zora O'Neill. She writes for the Rough Guides. I usually rough it when I go to Tulum because I usually go with at least a couple of dogs. (for the record they love the steaks at the Argentine in Tulum). Any way she seems to get off the beaten path and her food blog is great..It must be it's 6 am and I'm still reading it....or is it the gas that's keeping me awake?
Wednesday, November 07, 2007
Skip Dessert
Where ever you're having lunch skip dessert and head over to cafe at the new Hotel San Angel. The owner is a former Olympic athlete who fell in love with Mexico back when they hosted the Olymics in 1968. Thank the gods she fell out of love with Mexico City and came to Merida a couple of years ago. She is the most gifted pastry chef in town and you can really loose yourself gazing into the vitirine of cakes and pies. Loose all sense of self control and order a plate of assorted cookies too. Go for breakfast and faint on the sofa in the corner from sugar shock. There is a book shop in the cafe and the best craft store in town. A Fonart. Not open on Sunday is about the worst thing I can say about this dreamy spot. She threatens to serve meals soon. So far there is only a sandwich menu. Home made breads to go and a few gourmet items for take out. San Angel is on calle 47 at Blvd. Montejo
Near Santa Lucia park where you can have a nice lunch at the Casa Santa Lucia and the lovely looking desserts suck you can hop over to the new chocolate shop ki-xocolatl. In the Mayan and the Nahuatl languages, the word Ki-xocolatl means: delectable chocolate. Indeed. This is the newest venture by the Belgian owners of L'Almandine chocolates. They don't have the assorted chocolates that they sell in their other two locations, fools, but they have several exotic bars of chocolate and chocolate milk. We went there with a couple of strollers full of 2 and 4 year olds and no one left unhappy. Calle 55 no 513 between 60 x 62
L'Almandine is owned by a young Belgian couple Mathieu and Stephanie Brees. We quickly befriended them and have them over for dinner all the time in hopes they will bring a big box of chocolate. Sometimes we order a special dessert from them and sometimes they make ice cream and that is when I regret that I ever left the Rue de Seine apartment in Paris. More about my Berthilon withdrawals later. They use the best organic chocolate from Tabasco and they have 5 generations of master chocolatiers to back them up. The play a mean game of petanque and I'm thinking of putting a petanque court in my new house just to lure them in. They are not easy to find as they are located in a neighborhood you'll never go to called Pensiones. They are behind the La Ceiba Clinic off Circuito Colonias. Calle 5-D #313 between 38 and 38-A Tel: 920-58-69.
They have another locataion which is in the North. Calle 49 no 215 colonias San Antonio Cucul. Alas there is no L'Almandine in Centro.
Near Santa Lucia park where you can have a nice lunch at the Casa Santa Lucia and the lovely looking desserts suck you can hop over to the new chocolate shop ki-xocolatl. In the Mayan and the Nahuatl languages, the word Ki-xocolatl means: delectable chocolate. Indeed. This is the newest venture by the Belgian owners of L'Almandine chocolates. They don't have the assorted chocolates that they sell in their other two locations, fools, but they have several exotic bars of chocolate and chocolate milk. We went there with a couple of strollers full of 2 and 4 year olds and no one left unhappy. Calle 55 no 513 between 60 x 62
L'Almandine is owned by a young Belgian couple Mathieu and Stephanie Brees. We quickly befriended them and have them over for dinner all the time in hopes they will bring a big box of chocolate. Sometimes we order a special dessert from them and sometimes they make ice cream and that is when I regret that I ever left the Rue de Seine apartment in Paris. More about my Berthilon withdrawals later. They use the best organic chocolate from Tabasco and they have 5 generations of master chocolatiers to back them up. The play a mean game of petanque and I'm thinking of putting a petanque court in my new house just to lure them in. They are not easy to find as they are located in a neighborhood you'll never go to called Pensiones. They are behind the La Ceiba Clinic off Circuito Colonias. Calle 5-D #313 between 38 and 38-A Tel: 920-58-69.
They have another locataion which is in the North. Calle 49 no 215 colonias San Antonio Cucul. Alas there is no L'Almandine in Centro.
A Day or Two in the Country
So, Answering an ad in the paper a couple of weeks ago we went out to Oxkutzcab and saw a 500 acre property down a dirt road that was more mud than dirt. The guy showing us the property had bought the best bit but we bonded after we were stuck in the mud. So he agreed to show us more property. Starving at the end of the day we had lunch in the new (opened June 3 2007) location of El Principe Tutul Xui. The dining room is a giant palapa on the second floor and the food is just as good as Mani but he old locataion is much more charming. Still if your starving in Oxkutzcab....
Then a week later we went on another wild goose chase to see an abandoned hacienda. 3 miles down a worse road that was impassable by car because of the rain and on foot because of the brush. (Where is George Bush and his buzz saw when you need him?) So we dropped in at the Hacienda Santo Domingo de Yunku to see if we could catch the gardeners napping. So about 5pm we got around to having lunch at the nearby Hacienda Ochil. Now they offer a huge buffet of yucatecan cuisine or an a la carte menu. As we were late and they were taking down the buffet they offered to bring us a sample from the kitchen of everything on the buffet. We accepted. It was really great. If I could remember the name of the little deep fried masa balls filled with shreaded pork and achiote I would recomend them highly. alas I cannot.
So Ochil is a great place to have lunch after visiting the museum at Hacienda Yaxcopoil or on your way to Uxmal. And El Principe Tutul Xui is still the best place for Puc Chuc in the world. And I found an orchard 4 km. from Oxkutzcab where I want to build my art studio, weekend retreat and fox terrier spa.
Then a week later we went on another wild goose chase to see an abandoned hacienda. 3 miles down a worse road that was impassable by car because of the rain and on foot because of the brush. (Where is George Bush and his buzz saw when you need him?) So we dropped in at the Hacienda Santo Domingo de Yunku to see if we could catch the gardeners napping. So about 5pm we got around to having lunch at the nearby Hacienda Ochil. Now they offer a huge buffet of yucatecan cuisine or an a la carte menu. As we were late and they were taking down the buffet they offered to bring us a sample from the kitchen of everything on the buffet. We accepted. It was really great. If I could remember the name of the little deep fried masa balls filled with shreaded pork and achiote I would recomend them highly. alas I cannot.
So Ochil is a great place to have lunch after visiting the museum at Hacienda Yaxcopoil or on your way to Uxmal. And El Principe Tutul Xui is still the best place for Puc Chuc in the world. And I found an orchard 4 km. from Oxkutzcab where I want to build my art studio, weekend retreat and fox terrier spa.
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Autentica Comida Espanola
I'm renovating a house in the neighborhood of Mejorada for a bitchy NY artist and so find myself starving most everyday. Normally I have lunch at Cafe Club (calle 55 x 60 y 58). There I only ever order veggie soup and french fries with a picher of watermelon or papaya juice. Or sometimes I go for lebaneese food at Alemeda (calle 58 x 55 y 57). I used to go to the Templo (calle 59 x 52 y 50) but when I tried to go with my carpenter and his wife last week there was a sign on the door that said open 6pm til 2am. No great loss to lunch as it always took a millinium to get your food or even a drink at lunch time even if you were the only table there. As a result we decided to walk around the corner and go to Los Alemendras, perhaps the most famous restaurant in town (God only knows why). But as we rounded the corner I said let's try this place I went to 5 years ago that was not bad. But it was closed. after we passed the cook walked out and we asked if they were closed. Contrary to appearances they were open and we went in. Oh Joy divine.
It was the best meal I have had in Merida in years or maybe ever. I remember going through Spain a decade ago looking for a salad or a green bean and by the time I got down to Granada I thought I had scurvy. The food was so heavy and rich and hammish I thought I would explode. The first dish at Meson del Segoviano (calle 50-a no 433 x 59 y 57) gave me flashbacks. It was a roasted rib. The meat melted off the bone. I gulped down my Jamaica and ordered a beer. Soon we had a table full of Paella and an order of the freshest crispiest fried calamari I've ever had. (yours will no doubt be served half frozen and soggy). I was really in shock. The food is so mediocre in Merida for the most part that I am pretty much unshockable. But the best thing we had was a marinated octopus (end of the season now) with savory potato salad and red chile. The Segovain owner came out to see how we were and we were on the floor and the ceiling. We had exploded with the shock and awe of a perfect meal. So we had dessert. I don't remember what the others had a flan perhaps and a fried creamy thing. I was too deeply immersed in my Catalan custard. It was a rustic creme caramel that brought me back into my own body long enough to have a good strong expresso and pay the check. I was so happy I picked up the check even though I had balked at the prices. about double what you expect to pay for lunch in town.
On wednesday next the Working Gringos are coming over for a drink to see the new house and we are going to Meson del Segoviano. It was with them that I had my first meal there 5 years ago. Hopefully it will not be my last. And yes I am prepared to be disappointed. In fact I'll be shocked if it's any good at all.
UPDATE: Nov. 7, 2007
The Working Gringos' loved it too and so we went again last night for the 3rd time in 2 weeks. Each time we have been the only table in the restaurant. Hopefully it will survive to live through the upcoming season and prosper.
Meson del Segoviano
calle 50-a no 443 entre 59 y 57
Plaza de Mejorada / Centro
Merida
tel 999 924 0055
MESON DEL SEGOVIANA HAS MOVED
New address is not in centro it is in Colonias San Ramon Norte near Ki Xkolatil boutique.
calle 32 no. 219 Plaza 32 upstairs
col San Ramon Norte
glorieta del Pocito
Merida Yucatan 97117
tel 924 0055 cel 999 163 3196
Food still good. Atmosphere more hip and younger crowd. Lack's charm but the food is still very good.
It was the best meal I have had in Merida in years or maybe ever. I remember going through Spain a decade ago looking for a salad or a green bean and by the time I got down to Granada I thought I had scurvy. The food was so heavy and rich and hammish I thought I would explode. The first dish at Meson del Segoviano (calle 50-a no 433 x 59 y 57) gave me flashbacks. It was a roasted rib. The meat melted off the bone. I gulped down my Jamaica and ordered a beer. Soon we had a table full of Paella and an order of the freshest crispiest fried calamari I've ever had. (yours will no doubt be served half frozen and soggy). I was really in shock. The food is so mediocre in Merida for the most part that I am pretty much unshockable. But the best thing we had was a marinated octopus (end of the season now) with savory potato salad and red chile. The Segovain owner came out to see how we were and we were on the floor and the ceiling. We had exploded with the shock and awe of a perfect meal. So we had dessert. I don't remember what the others had a flan perhaps and a fried creamy thing. I was too deeply immersed in my Catalan custard. It was a rustic creme caramel that brought me back into my own body long enough to have a good strong expresso and pay the check. I was so happy I picked up the check even though I had balked at the prices. about double what you expect to pay for lunch in town.
On wednesday next the Working Gringos are coming over for a drink to see the new house and we are going to Meson del Segoviano. It was with them that I had my first meal there 5 years ago. Hopefully it will not be my last. And yes I am prepared to be disappointed. In fact I'll be shocked if it's any good at all.
UPDATE: Nov. 7, 2007
The Working Gringos' loved it too and so we went again last night for the 3rd time in 2 weeks. Each time we have been the only table in the restaurant. Hopefully it will survive to live through the upcoming season and prosper.
Meson del Segoviano
calle 50-a no 443 entre 59 y 57
Plaza de Mejorada / Centro
Merida
tel 999 924 0055
MESON DEL SEGOVIANA HAS MOVED
New address is not in centro it is in Colonias San Ramon Norte near Ki Xkolatil boutique.
calle 32 no. 219 Plaza 32 upstairs
col San Ramon Norte
glorieta del Pocito
Merida Yucatan 97117
tel 924 0055 cel 999 163 3196
Food still good. Atmosphere more hip and younger crowd. Lack's charm but the food is still very good.
Sunday, October 28, 2007
Recent Experiences
Often, but not often enough, a new restaurant opens in Merida and closes with in 6 months. Some locations seem to absolutely jinxed. One such location is the old Jacques Dessange Salon where we used to have 2 or 3 mm trimmed from our coif about every 3 months. Now it's a 'confusion cuisine' dining room that opened with a bang in the Society pages of the local paper in September 2007. I print this date because I promise you it will not be there in 6 months time.
I went there for lunch with this reviewer's partner.
We were the only ones there for lunch that day. We ordered a platter of empanadas which he had tried on a previous visit. They were teeny, tiny and tastey. Then he had a caesar salad. I was going to order that damn it. Instead I had something called the nasi gehring. It was inedible. I took one bite and it was so salty I thought I'd just send it back immediately. But I did not want to embarrass my dining partner. I took a tiny bite and put my fork and knife down on my plate where they remained for 10 minutes. The waiter ignored me so we chatted about the blandess of the salad and whether or not we should keep our parking space and walk over to Burger King. Finally I hailed the waiter and asked for the check, sending back the offending dish. The service was fine. The place is nice enough. But the dish which sounded like a Thai Paella on the menu was nothing more than a dish or rice that had been cooked in soy sauce til it was reduced to pure salt with a few tiny shrimp tossed in way to soon to be considered edible on their own right.
So dear Cecil, I give you 6 months to survive and I won't be attending your funeral.
I went there for lunch with this reviewer's partner.
We were the only ones there for lunch that day. We ordered a platter of empanadas which he had tried on a previous visit. They were teeny, tiny and tastey. Then he had a caesar salad. I was going to order that damn it. Instead I had something called the nasi gehring. It was inedible. I took one bite and it was so salty I thought I'd just send it back immediately. But I did not want to embarrass my dining partner. I took a tiny bite and put my fork and knife down on my plate where they remained for 10 minutes. The waiter ignored me so we chatted about the blandess of the salad and whether or not we should keep our parking space and walk over to Burger King. Finally I hailed the waiter and asked for the check, sending back the offending dish. The service was fine. The place is nice enough. But the dish which sounded like a Thai Paella on the menu was nothing more than a dish or rice that had been cooked in soy sauce til it was reduced to pure salt with a few tiny shrimp tossed in way to soon to be considered edible on their own right.
So dear Cecil, I give you 6 months to survive and I won't be attending your funeral.
Friday, December 22, 2006
Cocina Economica
If you'd have grown up in the Yucatan you'd have been lucky enough to have been eating this food all your life. It's fast food made by Grandma. It might literally be in Granny's living room. The construction workers take out from here. The rich folks in the suburbs send their maids out to collect food from these places. And you can wander in to one and pretty much bet on having your best food experience in Merida. They generally offer 3 or 4 dishes per day.
I go to a place that I don't remember the name of on calle 54 between 39 and 41 on the right side of the street.
see Lorna Gails recommendations here
all of my neighbors rave about Tio Will. I've got to go before we sell the house.
I go to a place that I don't remember the name of on calle 54 between 39 and 41 on the right side of the street.
see Lorna Gails recommendations here
all of my neighbors rave about Tio Will. I've got to go before we sell the house.
Get out of town
Mani
Calle 26 #208 entre 25 y 27
Any food fiend at all would just get off the plane and go directly to lunch at El Principe Tutul-Xiu for lunch in Mani. The only good Poc-Chuc I have ever eaten comes from this outdoor restaurant. It is perfection. Have a local Montejo beer and guacamole. Have dessert.
Update Nov. 2007 They have a new location of El Principe Tutul-Xiu in Oxkutzcab that is just as good but not as ambient as the Mani location.
Hacienda Temozon del sur
Even if the food is not good (and sometimes it is) you'll enjoy this restaurant. You might need a reservation on holidays and weekends.
Hacienda Ochil
It's a parrador with fine craft shops, a museum and lunch on a beatiful veranda under whirling fans and peacocks. Well hopefully not under the strolling screaming peacocks. Decent local food in an exceptional setting.
Update Nov. 2007 They now have a buffet on the weekends that's really nice. The food has improved here recently and they have cleared the land in the back of the restaurant and now you can walk down to the cenote.
Izamal
Kinich
calle 27 x 28 y 30
Near the pyramid Kinich serves very good local cuisine. The meat is overcooked but everything else is fine. The parrots name is Paco.
there
Hacienda San Jose Cholul
near Izamal
perfect place to eat. you might have to ignore the food. Sometimes I think they get the gardner to fill in as cook. Sometimes when the cook shows up the food is very good. They seldom have a full house but during holidays or high season you might reserve.
Hacienda Tepich
between Merida and Acanceh
The bunny that you might find on your plate has most recently resided on the ground floor of this funky hacienda near the Mayapan ruins. The Chilmole Pavo en Relleno Negro is divine. It's a stuffed turkey in a blackend chile pepper sauce. Great place to eat if your not from North Dallas.
Calle 26 #208 entre 25 y 27
Any food fiend at all would just get off the plane and go directly to lunch at El Principe Tutul-Xiu for lunch in Mani. The only good Poc-Chuc I have ever eaten comes from this outdoor restaurant. It is perfection. Have a local Montejo beer and guacamole. Have dessert.
Update Nov. 2007 They have a new location of El Principe Tutul-Xiu in Oxkutzcab that is just as good but not as ambient as the Mani location.
Hacienda Temozon del sur
Even if the food is not good (and sometimes it is) you'll enjoy this restaurant. You might need a reservation on holidays and weekends.
Hacienda Ochil
It's a parrador with fine craft shops, a museum and lunch on a beatiful veranda under whirling fans and peacocks. Well hopefully not under the strolling screaming peacocks. Decent local food in an exceptional setting.
Update Nov. 2007 They now have a buffet on the weekends that's really nice. The food has improved here recently and they have cleared the land in the back of the restaurant and now you can walk down to the cenote.
Izamal
Kinich
calle 27 x 28 y 30
Near the pyramid Kinich serves very good local cuisine. The meat is overcooked but everything else is fine. The parrots name is Paco.
there
Hacienda San Jose Cholul
near Izamal
perfect place to eat. you might have to ignore the food. Sometimes I think they get the gardner to fill in as cook. Sometimes when the cook shows up the food is very good. They seldom have a full house but during holidays or high season you might reserve.
Hacienda Tepich
between Merida and Acanceh
The bunny that you might find on your plate has most recently resided on the ground floor of this funky hacienda near the Mayapan ruins. The Chilmole Pavo en Relleno Negro is divine. It's a stuffed turkey in a blackend chile pepper sauce. Great place to eat if your not from North Dallas.
Euro
Meyer's
calle 13 x 36
Colonias Buenavista
German deli. Real & real good. Best bread in town. Troll ambiance.
Beltraneja
Calle 21 No. 107 at Calle 22, Colonia Itzimná.
Nice house, Nice neighborhood. Bad Art. Bad Food. Too bad we could use a good Spanish Restaurant.
El Meson del Segoviano
50a x 57
Another Spanish restaurant. I have been here once 3 years ago when it opened. I'd give it a second chance if I ever thought about it or if I were in the neighborhood and hungry. The setting is lovely.
Casa Lucia
Santa Lucia Park
calle 60 x 55 y 53
Reminds me of alot of neighborhood restaurants in Milan from my former life in fashion. Marble and glass and laminated menus. It's not at all a bad choice for lunch. I eat there all the time. It's never been great and it's never been bad. The desserts are the only real disappointments here. They are sitting there staring at you all through your meal and they look great. They all suck. I have tried them all. They suck. I know they look really, really, really good but they allsuck. Yes the pecan pie, the chocolate layer cake, the carrot cake and even the cheesecake suck. Sorry. Have that order of fries and skip the dessert. Even the bathrooms make you feel like your in Milan.
calle 13 x 36
Colonias Buenavista
German deli. Real & real good. Best bread in town. Troll ambiance.
Beltraneja
Calle 21 No. 107 at Calle 22, Colonia Itzimná.
Nice house, Nice neighborhood. Bad Art. Bad Food. Too bad we could use a good Spanish Restaurant.
El Meson del Segoviano
50a x 57
Another Spanish restaurant. I have been here once 3 years ago when it opened. I'd give it a second chance if I ever thought about it or if I were in the neighborhood and hungry. The setting is lovely.
Casa Lucia
Santa Lucia Park
calle 60 x 55 y 53
Reminds me of alot of neighborhood restaurants in Milan from my former life in fashion. Marble and glass and laminated menus. It's not at all a bad choice for lunch. I eat there all the time. It's never been great and it's never been bad. The desserts are the only real disappointments here. They are sitting there staring at you all through your meal and they look great. They all suck. I have tried them all. They suck. I know they look really, really, really good but they allsuck. Yes the pecan pie, the chocolate layer cake, the carrot cake and even the cheesecake suck. Sorry. Have that order of fries and skip the dessert. Even the bathrooms make you feel like your in Milan.
Not my favorites
La Tratto
Prolongation Montejo no 479
The ambiance and decor says "I want to be a model in South Beach circa 1990". Too late, baby. The menu can be found in any mall in any town in the USA. The service is sweet, so what. Every one is nice in Merida. The pasta is overcooked, surprise. You get 2 for 1 pasta on Wednesday and 2 for 1 steak on Monday. But you have to eat with people who want two for one pasta on Wednesday or 2 for 1 steak on Monday. The sauces are to die for. Literally you could die if you eat the steak au poivre or any of the pasta sauces. Avoid, Avoid, Avoid. I go here once a year, inevitably.
Trotters
Circuito Colonias between Calle 60 and Prolongación Montejo
While you are avoiding La Tratto you can go to the Trotters newest restaurant. The ambiance and decor here say "I'm shopping in the basement at Macy's circa 1980 and I need a knosh, now". It's a bistro, whoppee. It's full of the creme de la creme of Yucatan society. These are the people who brought us Cancun and their BMW driving spawn. It's not about the food. It couldn't be. Otherwise they would not call Elmers glue and potatoe flakes "Mashed Potatoes". It's about being seen spending a lot of money for mediocre food and oxiodized wine. But dear reader being happy that you have a place that is so lovely to do it.
Sit at the bar. If you can take your eyes off the bartender watch the crowd. Have a couple of drinks. Order something. push it around. Order a couple of drinks. Stumble out to your car. See how many BMWs you can smash on the way out of the parking lot. PS. I go here all the time.
Manhattan
Prolongation Montejo and the rail road tracks
I ordered the Bolognese sauce on spagetti here. I got a plate of meatloaf with a spiral of pesto on a bed of pasta in a watery ketchup sauce. I was not even surprised. Another diner ordered the Arrabiata and she had the same watery ketchup sauce with some tabasco added. YUM, YUM. I am surprised that this restaurant is still open 4 years later. I went back once with friends from NY to show them the Brooklynn Bridge replica and the Statue of Liberty in a kidney shaped pool. But I restricted myself and my guest to beer, vodka and peanuts.
Los Alemedros
50 x 57
Widely reccomended. Why? Poorly prepared food in a sad cafeteria environment. Even the original verson in the village of Ticul is mediocre. Run don't walk!
Peon Contreras
Ulysses thought the Sirens charming as well but on closer inspection he learned the Sirens can be lethal. So is the cafe at Peon Contreras. There I've warned you silly sailors. Steer clear.
Prolongation Montejo no 479
The ambiance and decor says "I want to be a model in South Beach circa 1990". Too late, baby. The menu can be found in any mall in any town in the USA. The service is sweet, so what. Every one is nice in Merida. The pasta is overcooked, surprise. You get 2 for 1 pasta on Wednesday and 2 for 1 steak on Monday. But you have to eat with people who want two for one pasta on Wednesday or 2 for 1 steak on Monday. The sauces are to die for. Literally you could die if you eat the steak au poivre or any of the pasta sauces. Avoid, Avoid, Avoid. I go here once a year, inevitably.
Trotters
Circuito Colonias between Calle 60 and Prolongación Montejo
While you are avoiding La Tratto you can go to the Trotters newest restaurant. The ambiance and decor here say "I'm shopping in the basement at Macy's circa 1980 and I need a knosh, now". It's a bistro, whoppee. It's full of the creme de la creme of Yucatan society. These are the people who brought us Cancun and their BMW driving spawn. It's not about the food. It couldn't be. Otherwise they would not call Elmers glue and potatoe flakes "Mashed Potatoes". It's about being seen spending a lot of money for mediocre food and oxiodized wine. But dear reader being happy that you have a place that is so lovely to do it.
Sit at the bar. If you can take your eyes off the bartender watch the crowd. Have a couple of drinks. Order something. push it around. Order a couple of drinks. Stumble out to your car. See how many BMWs you can smash on the way out of the parking lot. PS. I go here all the time.
Manhattan
Prolongation Montejo and the rail road tracks
I ordered the Bolognese sauce on spagetti here. I got a plate of meatloaf with a spiral of pesto on a bed of pasta in a watery ketchup sauce. I was not even surprised. Another diner ordered the Arrabiata and she had the same watery ketchup sauce with some tabasco added. YUM, YUM. I am surprised that this restaurant is still open 4 years later. I went back once with friends from NY to show them the Brooklynn Bridge replica and the Statue of Liberty in a kidney shaped pool. But I restricted myself and my guest to beer, vodka and peanuts.
Los Alemedros
50 x 57
Widely reccomended. Why? Poorly prepared food in a sad cafeteria environment. Even the original verson in the village of Ticul is mediocre. Run don't walk!
Peon Contreras
Ulysses thought the Sirens charming as well but on closer inspection he learned the Sirens can be lethal. So is the cafe at Peon Contreras. There I've warned you silly sailors. Steer clear.
More lunch options
Cafe Club
55 x 60 y 58
We eat lunch here twice a week. Don't speak to us we are not nice people. We eat the soup of the day that is served with microwaved bread from Costco and butter. We order a pitcher of fresh watermelon, or cantelope or payaya juice. Sometimes we order a club sandwich. We actually pay to park so we can eat this soup. Why do we eat here? I don't know. The soup is good. It's simple. It's easy. It's fast. You can sit outside. The waitress is always happy. The owner nice. You can read the local paper (which costs as much as the NY Times) for free. Don't order the daily special unless you have lost all your teeth and taste buds.
Cafe Almeda
58 x 55 y 57
It's a fight to the death to sit out back on the plastic chairs under the umbrellas. So you'll be forced to sit in the dark front room with the blaring TV tuned to the insipid soap opera. It's sometimes worth loosing the fight. I like the eggplant, hummous, tabouli and the skewered grilled lamp. I try to remember to ask them to hold the cheap vegtable oil. If I were really smart I'd carry a vial of virgin olive oil in my pocket. Order the hard and the soft pita. I've never had a bad lunch here, ever. But I sometimes with I had a gun.
Carls Jr.
Home Depot parking lot
If you are thinking that you need to eat at McDonalds or Burger King what your body is really trying to tell you is jump in a cab and to out to the suburbs and have lunch at Carl's Jr. They don't have the chili fries anymore but they do have the hand packed ice cream malts and shakes. Don't get sidetracked and stop at Checkers. Persevere and go to the end of prolongation Montejo. Across from Sam's club in the Home depot parking lot lies bliss, Carls Jr. Order. supersize, duh. move over to the counter and ask for jalapenoes, mustard, mayo, ketchup and pickles. Fill up your big plastic cup 1/2 coke 1/2 Fresa. Sit as far from the kiddie room, the smoking area and the TV as you can. But don't sit too close to the soda fountain either. Grab all the local papers. The best one has a color photo of the highway carnage on the cover. Slide into a booth and wait for your burger and fries. If the fries are cold, shed tears, they will replace them with new ones. Get a cab back the zocalo, go into the oldest cathedral of the Americas and beg for forgiveness. Take a nap.
Update Nov. 2007 RIP CARL'S JR. disappeared and Burger King took it's place. They moved to a location you'd never find and it's not the same as before. In fact it sucks!!!! But you can console yourself perhaps with the new Starbuck's which is two blocks north of home depot. Alas I can not as I've never seen the value or the charm of Starbucks....
55 x 60 y 58
We eat lunch here twice a week. Don't speak to us we are not nice people. We eat the soup of the day that is served with microwaved bread from Costco and butter. We order a pitcher of fresh watermelon, or cantelope or payaya juice. Sometimes we order a club sandwich. We actually pay to park so we can eat this soup. Why do we eat here? I don't know. The soup is good. It's simple. It's easy. It's fast. You can sit outside. The waitress is always happy. The owner nice. You can read the local paper (which costs as much as the NY Times) for free. Don't order the daily special unless you have lost all your teeth and taste buds.
Cafe Almeda
58 x 55 y 57
It's a fight to the death to sit out back on the plastic chairs under the umbrellas. So you'll be forced to sit in the dark front room with the blaring TV tuned to the insipid soap opera. It's sometimes worth loosing the fight. I like the eggplant, hummous, tabouli and the skewered grilled lamp. I try to remember to ask them to hold the cheap vegtable oil. If I were really smart I'd carry a vial of virgin olive oil in my pocket. Order the hard and the soft pita. I've never had a bad lunch here, ever. But I sometimes with I had a gun.
Carls Jr.
Home Depot parking lot
If you are thinking that you need to eat at McDonalds or Burger King what your body is really trying to tell you is jump in a cab and to out to the suburbs and have lunch at Carl's Jr. They don't have the chili fries anymore but they do have the hand packed ice cream malts and shakes. Don't get sidetracked and stop at Checkers. Persevere and go to the end of prolongation Montejo. Across from Sam's club in the Home depot parking lot lies bliss, Carls Jr. Order. supersize, duh. move over to the counter and ask for jalapenoes, mustard, mayo, ketchup and pickles. Fill up your big plastic cup 1/2 coke 1/2 Fresa. Sit as far from the kiddie room, the smoking area and the TV as you can. But don't sit too close to the soda fountain either. Grab all the local papers. The best one has a color photo of the highway carnage on the cover. Slide into a booth and wait for your burger and fries. If the fries are cold, shed tears, they will replace them with new ones. Get a cab back the zocalo, go into the oldest cathedral of the Americas and beg for forgiveness. Take a nap.
Update Nov. 2007 RIP CARL'S JR. disappeared and Burger King took it's place. They moved to a location you'd never find and it's not the same as before. In fact it sucks!!!! But you can console yourself perhaps with the new Starbuck's which is two blocks north of home depot. Alas I can not as I've never seen the value or the charm of Starbucks....
Tourists Traps
I don't go to these places ever but I know people who do. See the reviews on everyone elses website.
Portico el Pergrino
57 x 60 y 62
Pretty but they always make me feel like a tourist. I never get to the food because the groveling makes me jump out of my skin.
Pancho's
59 x 62 y 60
Those wily Trotters have done it again....inside Joke but the joke is on you if you eat here. It's like a Mexican restaurant at Six Flags over Texas. It's not the food that's bad necessarily. It's the music, the costumes and the ambiance. Down a half bottle of Herradura before you go and maybe you won't notice.
Bella Epoca
60 x 59 y 61
Like the village in NY or the Latin Quarter in Paris there are just places that you want to avoid gastronomically. If you cannot avoid the Bella Epoca then sit upstairs on the balcony. (2 tables only) and only order the panuchos and guacamole. If you fall into the trap don't blame me.
El Burladero
57 x 62 y 60
We went here 4 years ago with the writer from Travel & Leisure. Since then it has been sold and should be avoided at all costs. Well okay, go inside. Have a shot of tequila. Look at the decor. Go to the bathroom. Leave.
Portico el Pergrino
57 x 60 y 62
Pretty but they always make me feel like a tourist. I never get to the food because the groveling makes me jump out of my skin.
Pancho's
59 x 62 y 60
Those wily Trotters have done it again....inside Joke but the joke is on you if you eat here. It's like a Mexican restaurant at Six Flags over Texas. It's not the food that's bad necessarily. It's the music, the costumes and the ambiance. Down a half bottle of Herradura before you go and maybe you won't notice.
Bella Epoca
60 x 59 y 61
Like the village in NY or the Latin Quarter in Paris there are just places that you want to avoid gastronomically. If you cannot avoid the Bella Epoca then sit upstairs on the balcony. (2 tables only) and only order the panuchos and guacamole. If you fall into the trap don't blame me.
El Burladero
57 x 62 y 60
We went here 4 years ago with the writer from Travel & Leisure. Since then it has been sold and should be avoided at all costs. Well okay, go inside. Have a shot of tequila. Look at the decor. Go to the bathroom. Leave.
Tacos
Dream On. Chances are you have better Mexican food where you come from be it San Diego, Berlin or Podunk. The Yucatan is not famous for it's Mexican food. You can eat at Panchos or Las Brasas. They both have decent (sort of) mexican food but you'll be disappointed. here are a couple of places that you can have taco's that will not disappoint
Waynes
Drive along calle 20 between Circuito Colonias and Parque Itzima in Colonias Mexico Norte and look for the mobile home with a crowd on your left. If you eat here for breakfast or an early lunch you may never eat anywhere else. You'll pray daily that they open a location closer to home and expand their hours. Yucatan Living's website has photos.
The best coffee shop in town is nearby. Caffe Latte is just off the southwest corner where Av. Perez Ponce dead ends into Itzmna Square.
Ana Sabrina
Saturday at Noche Mexicana
Sunday in Santa Lucia Park
Beautiful Ana Sabrina and her beautiful tacos only on weekends. My favorite Papas con chorizo. Sunday in Santa Lucia can be fun. A flea market, live Swing & Salsa, great dancers and people watching. I love her, I love her food. Soulful.
UPDATE: June 11, 2008
I'm not the only one who loves Ana's food. Mark Bittman from the New York Times came to Merida and raved about Ana and her taco stand. Surely she will open a restaurant soon. Till then it's Sunday's in the Park.
La Reina de Itzalana
Santiago Market
57 x 72
They are not called tacos but the local fast food here is excellent. Five years ago when we were building our first house we ate here 3 or 4 times a week. The panuchos and salbutes are the best. All the tamales are great. I like the simple consume more than the lime soup but they are both exceptional. The fresh fruit aguas and liquados are great. There is a decent ice cream stand a few steps away toward the church.
La Parranda
60 x 59
I never ever go here but it is a chain that has decent food. I don't go here because they took over the space of my favorite old coffee shop that had the feeling of Havana in the 50's. Not that I was in Havana in the 50's, mind you. Anyway order the tacos al pastor a hybrid combo of Mexican/Lebanese origin. It's the best place to people watch. Around the corner is one of the best places to shop for crafts, Codice at 59 x 60.
UPDATE: June 11, 2008 Codice is gone so there is no where to shop at all. Have an extra beer and take a nap instead.
Waynes
Drive along calle 20 between Circuito Colonias and Parque Itzima in Colonias Mexico Norte and look for the mobile home with a crowd on your left. If you eat here for breakfast or an early lunch you may never eat anywhere else. You'll pray daily that they open a location closer to home and expand their hours. Yucatan Living's website has photos.
The best coffee shop in town is nearby. Caffe Latte is just off the southwest corner where Av. Perez Ponce dead ends into Itzmna Square.
Ana Sabrina
Saturday at Noche Mexicana
Sunday in Santa Lucia Park
Beautiful Ana Sabrina and her beautiful tacos only on weekends. My favorite Papas con chorizo. Sunday in Santa Lucia can be fun. A flea market, live Swing & Salsa, great dancers and people watching. I love her, I love her food. Soulful.
UPDATE: June 11, 2008
I'm not the only one who loves Ana's food. Mark Bittman from the New York Times came to Merida and raved about Ana and her taco stand. Surely she will open a restaurant soon. Till then it's Sunday's in the Park.
La Reina de Itzalana
Santiago Market
57 x 72
They are not called tacos but the local fast food here is excellent. Five years ago when we were building our first house we ate here 3 or 4 times a week. The panuchos and salbutes are the best. All the tamales are great. I like the simple consume more than the lime soup but they are both exceptional. The fresh fruit aguas and liquados are great. There is a decent ice cream stand a few steps away toward the church.
La Parranda
60 x 59
I never ever go here but it is a chain that has decent food. I don't go here because they took over the space of my favorite old coffee shop that had the feeling of Havana in the 50's. Not that I was in Havana in the 50's, mind you. Anyway order the tacos al pastor a hybrid combo of Mexican/Lebanese origin. It's the best place to people watch. Around the corner is one of the best places to shop for crafts, Codice at 59 x 60.
UPDATE: June 11, 2008 Codice is gone so there is no where to shop at all. Have an extra beer and take a nap instead.
Seafood for lunch
El Cangrejito
57 x 64 y 66
The crab is the name of this, the best, seafood taco stand in the world. Well maybe. The owner can be a crab too but lately he has been awfully friendly. Don't let him scare you. Sit down order a beer and ask for one or two of everything. That will make him happy and then you can decide what you like. Don't be offended if he serves his loyal clientel before he sneers at you. I never sat in the back room until a couple of weeks ago. It is a treasure trove of kitsch and it takes the edge off the wait for your food. The best things to order are cherna, langousta, venado, pulpo, camarones and of course cangrejito.
Marlin Azul
62 x 57 y 59
Fish soup superb. Outstanding ceviche of octopus or shrimp or fish or mixed. I like all the tacos. Fried breaded grouper is 3 dollars and enough for 2, crispy and fresh. I like the bar on the side where you can make eye contact with the servers. The room next door has AC but the waiter is less attentive and there is a mirrored wall. I'm just beyond the point of wanting to look at myself having lunch!
La Pigua
Avenida Cupules x 62
A business man's luncheon restaurant that is open from 12-6. It's pricey, it's stuffy and it's not bad at all. Reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in the Yucatan and if that's true then it is a sad state of affairs for seafood. Is it the aquariums or the decor alone that reminds me of a shopping mall in Waco,Texas circa 1975? Don't think that the grilled items on the menu will be grilled. Go for the fried anything. Fried is always good! If you are not going out to the beach this could be as close as you'll get to the real deal. Huachinago/Snapper, Robalo/Snook,Dorado/Dolphin Fish, Boquinete/Hog Fish, Pamapno, Cazon/Baby Shark, Rubia/Yellow Tail. I've warned you about the decor and ambiance, enjoy the food.... it's good.
Update: June 11, 2008
I've been to La Pigua 3 times in the past 2 weeks. I'm immune now to the decor as I sit with my back to the room and find an empty wall to stare at. I actually prefer to sit in the smoking area and not the main room. Order the ceviche, it is enough for 2 or 4 people and after that you don't need anything else except the fresh coconut cake. I think it's one of the best desserts in the world...and I've been around the world a few times leaving a sugar trail behind me. My octopus was too salty to eat but Josh's was great. Everyone one else had fish and they loved it. There was a real problem with the wine. The two things we asked for from the list were not there. Then we were offered Lancers, yes Lancers. And then a slew of chardonays...nay, nay. We passed over the Rhines and went for some mediocre bottle of Chilean sauvignon blanc and our table of 6 which normally could have drank a bottle each shared one bottle and did not order another....I doubt that they will either get or heed my suggestions so dear reader.... order beer.
57 x 64 y 66
The crab is the name of this, the best, seafood taco stand in the world. Well maybe. The owner can be a crab too but lately he has been awfully friendly. Don't let him scare you. Sit down order a beer and ask for one or two of everything. That will make him happy and then you can decide what you like. Don't be offended if he serves his loyal clientel before he sneers at you. I never sat in the back room until a couple of weeks ago. It is a treasure trove of kitsch and it takes the edge off the wait for your food. The best things to order are cherna, langousta, venado, pulpo, camarones and of course cangrejito.
Marlin Azul
62 x 57 y 59
Fish soup superb. Outstanding ceviche of octopus or shrimp or fish or mixed. I like all the tacos. Fried breaded grouper is 3 dollars and enough for 2, crispy and fresh. I like the bar on the side where you can make eye contact with the servers. The room next door has AC but the waiter is less attentive and there is a mirrored wall. I'm just beyond the point of wanting to look at myself having lunch!
La Pigua
Avenida Cupules x 62
A business man's luncheon restaurant that is open from 12-6. It's pricey, it's stuffy and it's not bad at all. Reputed to be the best seafood restaurant in the Yucatan and if that's true then it is a sad state of affairs for seafood. Is it the aquariums or the decor alone that reminds me of a shopping mall in Waco,Texas circa 1975? Don't think that the grilled items on the menu will be grilled. Go for the fried anything. Fried is always good! If you are not going out to the beach this could be as close as you'll get to the real deal. Huachinago/Snapper, Robalo/Snook,Dorado/Dolphin Fish, Boquinete/Hog Fish, Pamapno, Cazon/Baby Shark, Rubia/Yellow Tail. I've warned you about the decor and ambiance, enjoy the food.... it's good.
Update: June 11, 2008
I've been to La Pigua 3 times in the past 2 weeks. I'm immune now to the decor as I sit with my back to the room and find an empty wall to stare at. I actually prefer to sit in the smoking area and not the main room. Order the ceviche, it is enough for 2 or 4 people and after that you don't need anything else except the fresh coconut cake. I think it's one of the best desserts in the world...and I've been around the world a few times leaving a sugar trail behind me. My octopus was too salty to eat but Josh's was great. Everyone one else had fish and they loved it. There was a real problem with the wine. The two things we asked for from the list were not there. Then we were offered Lancers, yes Lancers. And then a slew of chardonays...nay, nay. We passed over the Rhines and went for some mediocre bottle of Chilean sauvignon blanc and our table of 6 which normally could have drank a bottle each shared one bottle and did not order another....I doubt that they will either get or heed my suggestions so dear reader.... order beer.
My Favorite places around town
If you have a car or know how to hail a cab chose to have dinner outside of centro
Xcanatun
Kilometer 12 Merida/Progresso highway
Our first stop when guests are in town or for a holiday treat. Mostly the food is very good but I've sent a rare steak back to the kitchen twice be be thawed! They were not amused, neither was I.The hacienda is a luxury hotel with a day spa as well as the gourmet restaurant. If you've had enough gourmet in your life (and I have) then try the local cuisine here. I always sit on the terrace 'malgre' the mosquitoes and barking dogs from the village. Ask the to turn off or turn down the volume on the elevator musak. If you sit inside you risk being subjected to the live music which runs the gamut from "Feelings" to "My Way" with a drive by shot at Chopin. Now that I hate Nectar I'd say it's your best bet in town for having a good meal. Roll the dice.
Nectar
Avenida 1 no. 412 x 66
Colonias Diaz Ordaz
Is it Fusion or confusion? Sometimes it's hard to tell in this trendy, tastey and pricey place. It's three years old now and having some of those awful adolescent growth spurts and ugly pimples. All of our favorites are not on the new menu. The best waiter in Merida has been replaced by the cutest and most obnoxious!. The sommelier from hell! The valet will not want to park your rented chevy pop so take a taxi. I took Travel & Leisure magazine here 3 years ago and that put them on the map with tourists. The locals love it too. It's the place to see and be seen. Go late. The wine list has gotten progressively worse as they run out of stock and ideas. There is no shortage of ideas where the food is concerned. Even the hamburger is out of this world....and I don't mean fabulous darling. They have even re-invented the cesar salad. I'll go back because where else am I going to eat with clients and friends but don't ask me to be nice. I want my waiter back and I want the duck chimichangas back on the menu. And for gods sake learn how to make a fricking martini! hint. It's not vermouth with a splash of Vodka!
Campay
calle 19 no 206 x 22
Colonias Mexico
Dying for sushi? It's worth the risk. If you're not Japanese eat here and you will most likely be happy as a tick on a poodle. WARNING!!!! Philadelphia Cream cheese is too Merida what Spam is to Manila, sophistication on steroids. That said the tuna is fine, the sea bass (robalo) extra fresh and yummy. The Octopus is great and I usually toss it out anywhere else. The fall / winter is the season for Octopus and the Japanese flock here to fish for the finest Octopi in the world so order this for a treat. Other local fish they seem to ignore but sometimes you can have good shrimp, conch or crab. The tempura roll is very fine indeed. Aside from the cream cheese hurdle you'll want to "just say no" to the soy sauce with lime. Since we eat here often they are Gringo sensitive. Thankfully the horrid waiter has been promoted to manager and the service is now adequate. I could not live here without Campay!
Xcanatun
Kilometer 12 Merida/Progresso highway
Our first stop when guests are in town or for a holiday treat. Mostly the food is very good but I've sent a rare steak back to the kitchen twice be be thawed! They were not amused, neither was I.The hacienda is a luxury hotel with a day spa as well as the gourmet restaurant. If you've had enough gourmet in your life (and I have) then try the local cuisine here. I always sit on the terrace 'malgre' the mosquitoes and barking dogs from the village. Ask the to turn off or turn down the volume on the elevator musak. If you sit inside you risk being subjected to the live music which runs the gamut from "Feelings" to "My Way" with a drive by shot at Chopin. Now that I hate Nectar I'd say it's your best bet in town for having a good meal. Roll the dice.
Nectar
Avenida 1 no. 412 x 66
Colonias Diaz Ordaz
Is it Fusion or confusion? Sometimes it's hard to tell in this trendy, tastey and pricey place. It's three years old now and having some of those awful adolescent growth spurts and ugly pimples. All of our favorites are not on the new menu. The best waiter in Merida has been replaced by the cutest and most obnoxious!. The sommelier from hell! The valet will not want to park your rented chevy pop so take a taxi. I took Travel & Leisure magazine here 3 years ago and that put them on the map with tourists. The locals love it too. It's the place to see and be seen. Go late. The wine list has gotten progressively worse as they run out of stock and ideas. There is no shortage of ideas where the food is concerned. Even the hamburger is out of this world....and I don't mean fabulous darling. They have even re-invented the cesar salad. I'll go back because where else am I going to eat with clients and friends but don't ask me to be nice. I want my waiter back and I want the duck chimichangas back on the menu. And for gods sake learn how to make a fricking martini! hint. It's not vermouth with a splash of Vodka!
Campay
calle 19 no 206 x 22
Colonias Mexico
Dying for sushi? It's worth the risk. If you're not Japanese eat here and you will most likely be happy as a tick on a poodle. WARNING!!!! Philadelphia Cream cheese is too Merida what Spam is to Manila, sophistication on steroids. That said the tuna is fine, the sea bass (robalo) extra fresh and yummy. The Octopus is great and I usually toss it out anywhere else. The fall / winter is the season for Octopus and the Japanese flock here to fish for the finest Octopi in the world so order this for a treat. Other local fish they seem to ignore but sometimes you can have good shrimp, conch or crab. The tempura roll is very fine indeed. Aside from the cream cheese hurdle you'll want to "just say no" to the soy sauce with lime. Since we eat here often they are Gringo sensitive. Thankfully the horrid waiter has been promoted to manager and the service is now adequate. I could not live here without Campay!
My Favorite places downtown for dinner are
Pane e Vino
62 x 61 y 63
If your looking at the wonderful 'art deco' Teatro Merida you'll miss out on the best Italian food downtown. Across the street Pane e Vino offers honest Tuscan food in a bohemian atmosphere with a mix of locals, expatriots and tourists. I am never sure if the owners are still cooking here or not. But since I always order the same things and they are always good I quit asking. The menu is huge and exhausting. In fact my favorite thing to do is sit up front and watch the tourists read the menu. They flip the dirty pages of the menu on the stand. They look at unpainted walls and the rustic floors. They waddle off to somewhere that may or may not be cleaner that will poison them for sure. I assume it's the menu and dirt that scares them off and not me hissing at them.I like the ragu sauce on gnocci. I loved loved loved the panacoti until they changed the sauce.
after dinner stroll around the zocalo or visit the Olimpo art gallery. In the corner to the right of the front door of the Olimpo are posted the current cultural events for the month.
La Casa de Frida
61 x 66 y 66a
The owner recently gave up on having a huge menu and I can only say amen sister! Now you can sit in the courtyard and enjoy the homage to Frida decor although you can no longer enjoy the stars. Chiles en nogada and mole are the things to order. The service has vastly improved.
before dinner you can shop at the real "Casa de las Artesanias" on calle 63 x 64 y 66 until 8 pm. Here you'll get a good idea of what you can expect to find in all the shops and here the prices are fixed and fair.
Villa Maria
59 x 68
Behind the Santiago church is a beautiful Casona with a central cloisterd courtyard. Sit alfresco under the Moorish arches in the open sky in decent weather. The Yucatecos and tourists will be sitting in the air conditioned rooms in front. The owers are from Mexico City and Austria with degrees and experience in food and hotel service that shows. Unfortunately for us the menu has not changed since they opened. But for you it will all be a new experience. I like the greek salad and the goat cheese tart. I like the steak frites too!
nearby is the market and the Santiago Square which has salsa music on Tuesday nights.
Alberto's Continental
64 y 59
It's been 3 years since Hurricane Isidoro wiped out the giant rubber trees that shaded the colonial courtyard of Alberto's. They've grown back and now you don't have to rely on the owners charm alone to enjoy a drink in the garden. Order from the Lebanese side of the menu. There are antiques for sale in the back and if your nice or cute he might open up the boutique for you after dinner.
62 x 61 y 63
If your looking at the wonderful 'art deco' Teatro Merida you'll miss out on the best Italian food downtown. Across the street Pane e Vino offers honest Tuscan food in a bohemian atmosphere with a mix of locals, expatriots and tourists. I am never sure if the owners are still cooking here or not. But since I always order the same things and they are always good I quit asking. The menu is huge and exhausting. In fact my favorite thing to do is sit up front and watch the tourists read the menu. They flip the dirty pages of the menu on the stand. They look at unpainted walls and the rustic floors. They waddle off to somewhere that may or may not be cleaner that will poison them for sure. I assume it's the menu and dirt that scares them off and not me hissing at them.I like the ragu sauce on gnocci. I loved loved loved the panacoti until they changed the sauce.
after dinner stroll around the zocalo or visit the Olimpo art gallery. In the corner to the right of the front door of the Olimpo are posted the current cultural events for the month.
La Casa de Frida
61 x 66 y 66a
The owner recently gave up on having a huge menu and I can only say amen sister! Now you can sit in the courtyard and enjoy the homage to Frida decor although you can no longer enjoy the stars. Chiles en nogada and mole are the things to order. The service has vastly improved.
before dinner you can shop at the real "Casa de las Artesanias" on calle 63 x 64 y 66 until 8 pm. Here you'll get a good idea of what you can expect to find in all the shops and here the prices are fixed and fair.
Villa Maria
59 x 68
Behind the Santiago church is a beautiful Casona with a central cloisterd courtyard. Sit alfresco under the Moorish arches in the open sky in decent weather. The Yucatecos and tourists will be sitting in the air conditioned rooms in front. The owers are from Mexico City and Austria with degrees and experience in food and hotel service that shows. Unfortunately for us the menu has not changed since they opened. But for you it will all be a new experience. I like the greek salad and the goat cheese tart. I like the steak frites too!
nearby is the market and the Santiago Square which has salsa music on Tuesday nights.
Alberto's Continental
64 y 59
It's been 3 years since Hurricane Isidoro wiped out the giant rubber trees that shaded the colonial courtyard of Alberto's. They've grown back and now you don't have to rely on the owners charm alone to enjoy a drink in the garden. Order from the Lebanese side of the menu. There are antiques for sale in the back and if your nice or cute he might open up the boutique for you after dinner.
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